I take the bus, or the colectivo most days to work as the journey from Rada Tilly to Comodoro is definitely not walkable. A bus ferried me to and from Sixth Form for 2 years. It was fairly important then given how little natural flair I showed whilst learning to drive. In France, I was a regular on the number 11 despite its timetable being entirely incongruent with my working schedule. I can take the bus, but the bondi seems to throw up more challenges.
So my parada. Now tell me, how can I be expected to determine where a bus coming to this bus stop may take me, when it may arrive or how much money might I be expected to pay for a ride?? My host mum walked me to the bus stop the first time I had to take the bus and literally put me on it. If I had just stumbled across this piece of corregated iron, I would not have assumed that the number 10 bus would arrive, take me on a roundabout journey to Comodoro and it would cost me $14.50 pesos. It’s a very simple journey, I get on at this stop and then I get off when the bus terminates. What could go wrong? Well it’s me.
It seems to be that Argentinians have an inherent knowledge of the bus system because I cannot fathom how else they know how to get from A to B. Timetables are not as rigid as at home. I asked someone what sort of time I should expect the bus and they snorted at my foolish question and replied with something to the effect of: the bus comes when it comes. In theory, the bus also follows the same route each day but you will not get your hands on a route map for love nor money. Some days it takes 35 mins, some days 55 mins. Amusingly, each bus stop has a name although that is also undocumented. Here is a picture: to the untrained eye, it may look like a bench, a tree and an ineffectual archway. It is in fact a bus stop. Duh.
My fellow bus passengers and the bus drivers definitely recognise me. It is never more apparent that I am foreign than when the bus jolts to a stop at the terminal and everyone stands up and their heads reach my armpit. Not only am I significantly larger than everyone on the bus, I also seem to be one of the few unable to stay awake. I’m not sure what it is about the leather seats that sends me sleep but I have a 10/10 power nap almost every journey. There isn’t much in the way of in-bus entertainment given that the radio chats in a language I don’t yet understand, so the non-snoozers are the losers in my eyes.
Communication between myself and the bus drivers is limited. A particular favourite encounter was when a driver asked me (he woke me up) if we could go via his house as I was the only passenger left on the bus. I smiled and nodded, obviously. He got back on the bus and offered to drop me straight home. A very kind offer, however, I didn’t know where I live nor how to describe my bus stop besides saying it is close to a very big hill. I handed him a note with my address on it (which I am considering tattooing to my arm) and he dropped me home. We had a nice chat and I laughed politely at several jokes I did not understand. I went to class the next day to be told by one of my students that their uncle was the bus driver with whom I could barely communicate and he had asked her if any of her teachers were tall, took the Rada Tilly bus, slept excessively and spoke amusing Spanish, and she very quickly determined that he was speaking about me. I do pick my moments though, last week I understood that the driver was pissed because I wanted to pay with cash as there was no money on my bus card. I put on my best confused face, mumbled soy inglesa, lo siento, and he let me pass without further questioning.
Road safety is also a hoot here. Road markings don’t exist and wearing your seatbelt is a treated as sign that you don’t trust the driver’s ability behind the wheel, rather than a damn good idea/legal obligation. My younger brother literally does acrobatics in the back seat of the moving car, and the older brother squats behind the hand break so as to leave enough room for his brother’s performance. I sit in the front seat twitching and pretending not to look on edge when my siblings are hanging out of the passenger windows.
On a completely different topic, I think some tyrant at the institute has given me nits because I’m scratching my head like a leper. That means another trip to the pharmacy, and undoubtedly another good story.
Besos and hugs and kisses x
Bethan your blog is not only hilarious and sweet and great but also makes for excellent procrastination so I thank you very much xxxx
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So happy to help!!!! Hope all is well. Remember how much we procrastinated Wife of Bath and King Lea revision and you nailed that!!! Xx
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Hola Bethan!!! El transporte urbano en colectivos de Argentina es distinto en cada ciudad, el de mi adorado Comodoro tiene sus fallas, pero nos lleva… No estamos ni cerca del primer mundo, pero aún así amamos nuestro país con todos sus defectos(Como la seguridad vial). Y es hermoso, no? En cuanto a la música, hay bellas canciones argentinas. En cuanto a las liendres, vinagre para la cabeza, y santo remedio!!!
Saludo enorme, Bethan.
Espero que lo pases bien y disfrutes de Comodoro Rivadavia, de Rada Tilly y de toda nuestra Argentina.
Bethan Hello !!! The urban transport in Argentina is different in each city, my beloved Commodore has its flaws, but it leads us … We are nowhere near the first world, but we still love our country with all its faults (such as security vial). And it’s beautiful, no? As for music, there are beautiful Argentine songs. As for nits, vinegar to the head, and holy remedy !!!
huge greeting, Bethan.
I hope you have a good time and enjoy Comodoro Rivadavia Rada Tilly and our entire Argentina.
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Hola Ines, gracias por tu lindo comentario! English public transport has many flaws too but is very different to here! By no means did I intend to be critical as you are right, it does its job!! Argentina is beautiful and I really like music although am not a big Cumbia fan!! Thankfully I’m nit free and didn’t have to resort to vinegar. Thanks again and all the best!!
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Hi Bethan, I’m really enjoying your posts. I’m from Comodoro Rivadavia but I moved to Canada 16 years ago. I can imagine all the situations that you talk about. I’m laughing most of the time. I think this is a great experience. Have fun and enjoy it!!
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Hi Mariela! I’m glad it made you laugh! I’m really enjoying it here, thank you for your comment!
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Hi Bethan , im cecilia i live in Rada tilly . Yesterday i read in the paper rada tilly this article of the bus.
your experencie here is great. if you want may be we can write and meet. Regards. Cecilia
Hola Behtan soy cecilia vivo en rada tilly. ayer lei en el periodo el articulo del colectivo . sobre tu blog.
tu experiencia aqui es grandiosa. si tu deseas tal vez podamos escribirnos o conocernos.
Saludos Cecilia
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Hola Cecelia. Muchas gracias por tu comentario. Me gustaría mucho conocerte. Envíame un mensaje en Face!
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Hi! I see your blog in the newspaper. Im living in rada tilly too. I read in your twitter that you miss peanut butter : in front of La Proveeduria (the supermarket) there is a place called “madre naturaleza” you can find peanut butter on there. (Sorry about my bad english)
If you need help the next time in the farmacia I can help you.
Besitos and have a good time in this beauty place.
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Hi Estefania! Amazing, I will definitely pay them a visit! Thank you for your very kind offer!!
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Entretenida historia me gusto, es bueno saber como ve la gente de afuera a nuestra ciudad. Que tengas lindas experiencias.
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Hey bethan, nice post. It seems that u had some funny experiences down here. I recomend you watching the orange sky above on windy days, it’s a crazy picture I always admired and catalogued unique. Combined with hot mate and facturas is really awsome! I hope u enjoy your stay, and have a great time! Cheers 🍻
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Thanks for your comment Facu! Definitely lots of fun experiences! I have already eaten far too many facturas!!
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